Acadia National Park - The Precipice

The first 8 routes are left of the big slab left of Chitlin Corner.
They are approached via some 3rd and 4th class ledges.

1. Boys From Bangor 5.7, wider RFC, lieback
2. Reach 5.9, thin crack
3. Thin 5.8, thin to shallow RFC
4. Adrift 5.10c, seam, 1x, 2 fixed pins
5. Black Beard 5.10, may be same as Adrift
   FA - John Harlin III, Ed Webster, 1980
6. Smooth Sailing 5.10a, 2 open books, arete, then groove back to left.
   FA - John Harlin III, Ed Webster, 1980
7. Dike Gully 5.5, 2 pitches, on the left border of the big slab.
8. Didi 5.8, left of upper pitch of Dike Gully, p1: 5.8 RFC,
   p2: 5.4 RFC or 5.10 R thin crack to left.

9. Fatback Direct 5.8, a direct start to Fat Back Crack.  Leaves Dike
   Gully 20' off the ground, following a series of 5.8 flakes.  Up
   a straight in 5.5 crack with some vegetation to the bolt belay.
10. Fatback Crack 5.8+ *, a sustained hand crack in the left leaning LFC
   near the top of the slab.  From the bolt belay atop Fatback Direct,
   approach via a 5.8 thin crack on the left, or use the 5.8 slab with
   bolt above the belay to the small pine, and traverse back left to
   join the 5.8 thin crack.
11. Road to Nowhere 5.11b/c, 3x, a direct start to Sea Gypsy, which
   joins the straight in crack of Fatback Direct.  The name describes
   the lack of a fixed belay anchor until recent years.  Dries slowly.
   FA - Chris Kane, ~1992
12. Sea Gypsy 5.9+ *, starts on a 40' 5.5 RFC on the right side of a
   big flake.  Up a short 5.7 slab above the flake to a hidden bolt.
   Trend left up the 5.5 runout slab above, reaching the bolt belay.
   p2: up the 5.8 slab with bolt, then traverse right to the second
   small LFC with a fixed pin.  5.10 reach move getting past the pin.
   5.8 straight in hand crack through the small roof above.
   FA - John Harlin III, Ed Webster, 1980
13. Rusticator 5.11, 2x, the lefthand of two 200' face cracks left of
   Chitlin Corner.  A direct start to High Plains Drifter.
   Up the technical bulge past 2 bolts, then 5.7 to the bolt belay.
14. High Plains Drifter 5.10+ *, starts in the righthand of the two
   face cracks (5.8), and traverses to the left crack on the first or
   second easy flake, to reach the same bolt belay.
   p2: up the crack, or (easier) face left of the crack, to the
   climactic headwall.  Up the headwall (small LFC, dries slowly) to a
   moderate hand crack.  A rusty fixed pin is in place at the start of
   the headwall from the first free ascent, and a newer bolt is also
   in place there.  Neither is really needed for protection, if you
   have a small TCU.  The bolt is handy for backing off, though, since
   recent guidebooks have either left the route out, or incorrectly
   given the rating as 5.9+.  A biner has often been in place on it
   from such an incident.  Probably the shiny hanger should replaced
   with a black painted one to stop attracting unwitting leaders.
   FA - Sam Slater, Bob Butera, 1977
15. Exit Laughing 5.8 C1, an aid finish to High Plains Drifter, from
   before the headwall was freed.  Goes left out the arching crack,
   then up a 5.6 hand crack.
16. Pressure Drop 5.8 *, stays in the righthand face crack, until
   a final rising traverse to the belay on Chitlin Corner.  The crux
   is the first bulge, although the crack becomes an insecure seam at
   times.
17. Chitlin Corner 5.9+ *, the classic large LFC on the right edge of
   the big slab.  p1: 5.7 up the corner to the belay slings (fixed
   pin and fixed hex nut).  p2 (dries slowly): 5.9+ thin crack/stem
   to the roof, then traverse on face holds below the roof.  Up
   easier exposed cracks to the top.  Rappel from slings, or zigzag
   on 3rd/4th class ledges down and right to the rappel anchor atop
   Return to Forever.
   FA - Doug Madera, Paul Ross, 1977

On the right wall of Chitlin Corner are 2 crack climbs:

18. Jaws 5.10c *, this sustained thin crack starts 20' below the belay
    on Chitlin Corner, so an intermediate belay is advised at a stance
    halfway up Chitlin Corner.  2 cruxes -- one halfway up the
    straight crack, and a second when the crack thins out and
    forces a reach up and right to the larger left-diagonalling exit
    crack.
19. Green Mountain Power 5.9+, this starts halfway up the first
    pitch of Chitlin Corner, up 5.7 buckets and hand jams to a small
    ledge (possible belay).  Up the small RFC above to a small roof
    on the arete.  One insecure 5.10 move to pass the roof, and 5.8 R
    face above.
   
[routes continue here - more later]