I. Preparation
- Read these instructions all the way through and look at all the diagrams before starting! It's important to have a visual picture in your head of what you'll be building, so make sure you understand what you're getting into!
- Find out if you have a 4-foot by 22-foot space for a carpetball table (this includes room on each end and on the sides). Remember that you will put together the table where it will be played; it is too big and heavy to move after being assembled.
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Choose a 20-inch wide ("hard") or 24-inch wide ("easy") table. The plans I have drawn up work for a 20-inch table (I think that a skinnier table is more difficult and fun to play). If you want a 24-inch table, you can keep the same dimensions for all the parts except:
- 20-inch 2x4's --> 24-inch 2x4's
- 20-inch 4x4 --> 24-inch 4x4
- 23-inch end plywood --> 27-inch end plywood
- 20-inch main plywood --> 24-inch main plywood
- 31.78-inch end leg cross supports --> 37.44-inch end leg cross supports
- 40.27-inch leg middle leg cross supports --> 45.93-inch middle leg cross supports
- Choose between a "slow" table (balls don't roll as easily; uses thicker, more expensive carpet) or a "fast" table (balls roll with the slightest touch; uses thinner, cheaper carpet). Remember though, that the terms slow and fast are completely relative because that all depends on how fast you throw the cue ball.
- Note: I have made a number of carpetball tables in my lifetime; some easy and "fast," and some hard and "slow." The majority of players, including myself, have decided that the hard and "slow" tables were much more exciting to play.