ITALY: The globalization of pasta

George Sassoon says: "I always believed that Durum wheat was grown extensively in Sicily in ancient times, and that possession of the island was always hotly disputed because of this. This was because pasta, with almost unlimited shelf life, could be made from Durum so was ideal for military rations. Is this incorrect, and was Durum only available after the discovery of America?"

RH: It is correct. Wheat was not native to America, but certain areas proved very suitable for durum wheat, which does not grow well in northern Europe. The grain feels hard (durum) because of its high gluten content, It is very nutritious because it has the highest wheat protein value. Wheat pastas were known in India and Arabia before they were known in Europe, and legend has it that Marco Polo brought the recipe back with him in 1295. In fact, North Africa and Sicily were the bread basket of the Roman Empire, and I suspect that the wheat was durum. Pasta started in southern Italy and spread northward. The problem with bread made from soft wheat is that it goes stale quickly. Pasta is forced through perforated plates before being dried, which allows it to keep almost indefinitely. It comes is more that 100 different forms. What I do not understand is why the Italians chose forms which make the eating of it so precarious and even ridiculous. For those interested in the globalization of pasta, see Vicenzo Buenoassisi, A World of Pasta (1978).

Ronald Hilton - 1/12/03