A
quick and dirty cheat sheet
Machining
stainless is tricky; it requires a level of care and attention to detail that
aluminum and plastic do not. It takes a
lot more energy to machine stainless, so if you try to do it improperly you
will destroy your tools and your part - and quite possibly injure
yourself.
There
are many alloys of Stainless, all
are difficult to machine, although some are easier than others. In most cases, type 303 is the best choice
since it is easier to machine than most other alloys. Its only drawbacks are expense ($6/lb, 1997 prices) and the fact
it can be hard to find. Ignore the myth
that it is not weldable; it is only slightly more difficult to weld than other
stainless alloys.
The
McMaster-Carr catalogue has an excellent short description of stainless alloys;
Machinery’s Handbook is a more extensive reference.
By
far the best machines to use are the Haas Machining Centers since they have
both a very stiff spindle and flood coolant.
The stiff spindle reduces chatter, and the flood coolant is essential
for keeping the tool cool.
For
any reasonable size job you will want to use CNC control. This allows you to maintain a constant feed
and gives you two free hands to monitor the very important coolant
situation.
Because
cutting stainless requires so much machining horsepower, your setup needs to be
extremely stiff. Flimsy setups are
quite dangerous (they can lead to workpieces moving at high velocities in your
direction). They also cause chatter,
which will destroy your tool and give your part a lousy finish. Double stick tape is out of the question for
stainless.
Without
coolant, you will destroy even a sharp tool in seconds. The tool will heat up (often becoming red
hot) then quickly become dull. Flood
coolant is much better than any intermittent coolant you will be able to
apply. Currently the Haas machines are
the only machines in PRL with flood coolant capability. They use a synthetic
water-based coolant.
When
using flood coolant on the Haas, be sure that the coolant is always getting to
the tool. Sometimes the geometry of
your part will be such that some of the workpiece blocks the coolant from
getting to the tool. A nice trick is to
hook up the garden hose to the coolant and manually aim it at the tool.
Be
careful to not splash coolant on yourself, others, or the floor. It may cause an allergic reaction, a rash,
and be quite a mess. Remember, you will
have to clean up after you’re done!
Generally,
it is best to use carbide tools.
Carbide steel is harder and stiffer than high speed steel. This means you can run the machine at higher
spindle speeds, which, in turn, allows running at faster feeds and therefore
reduced cutting time. Carbide tools are very brittle and do not like extreme
changes in temperature. You must either not use coolant when using carbide
tools (not recommended for machining stainless), or use flood coolant. If you
apply coolant intermittently, the temperature fluctuation will fracture a
carbide tool. A general guideline is to pick a spindle speed of 2 to 3 times
what you would use for a high speed steel tool.
Roughing
endmills are also nice (although not as good as carbide) since they dissipate
heat better than high speed steel cutters. Cutters that get too hot quickly
become dull and useless.
Choose
a cutter with a lot of flutes. The more
flutes on a cutter, the less chip load per flute. This is different from aluminum machining, where it is sometimes
better to have fewer flutes to avoid clogging of the material between the
flutes. (Clogging due to a lot of
flutes isn’t usually a problem with stainless since the depth of cut is much
smaller.)
Climb vs.
conventional cut.
Climb
cut gives a better finish than a conventional cut if your machine is a decent
(stiff) machine. The Haas machines are
definitely decent.
Here
are some numbers empirically determined for running stainless steel in a CNC
machining center with flood coolant.
Calculate
using the formula: ![]()
Cutting Speed for stainless steel, high
speed steel cutter on a manual milling machine = 50
Cutting Speed for stainless steel,
carbide cutter on a manual milling machine = 125
Cutting Speed for stainless steel, high
speed steel cutter, flood coolant on Haas = 100
Cutting Speed for stainless steel,
carbide cutter, flood coolant on Haas = 250
Program
in the feedrate you get from the following formula or choose something slightly
higher. When you machine, turn the
feedrate knob way down. Then turn it up
to where it sounds good. An
experienced TA can help you figure out when it “sounds good.”
![]()
ChipLoad for stainless steel
=.002 inch/tooth
Depth of cut:
Generally
determined by the horsepower of the machine.
For stainless, a good rule of thumb is 1/8th of the cutter
diameter. Too shallow a cut actually
work hardens the material, which will destroy your cutter.
revision history
rev 0 9/97 Chuck McCall original text
rev
0.1 8/01 Katherine Kuchenbecker minor revisions