1. Steal This Book 5.10b *
A left-facing corner.
p1: start under big tree that leans against wall; traverse flake
to reach main corner. Sustained fingerlocks in corner. 150'.
This pitch was originally started more directly in
the corner, after a hand traverse.
p2: more thin corner to spooky headwall (hollow flakes); exit right
to chimney and lieback. 100'. Rap route. The original route
continues to the top, up a dirty left-facing corner
and further pitches.
FA - Rick Sylvester, Vince Goetz, ~1971
FFA(finger crack on p1) - Joel Ager, Clint Cummins, 5/2000
Photo
with overlaid lines of routes
topo
of Steal This Book, Sight Reader, Remain in Light (improved 11/01)
2. Sight Reader 5.10a **
A nice-looking face on a buttress.
The route is mostly 5.8/5.9, with just a couple of 5.10 moves.
However, it is not easy to find the easiest path in the sea
of handholds. It also takes natural gear to reach the first
bolt and to place here and there.
p1: Syllable first pitch - flakes right of streak 5.7, 60'.
p2: Moderate arete past roof. Hand traverse on dike (5.10a).
Ramp, then back up right on juggy face past 3 bolts.
belay at stance above dike. 120'.
p3: Ramp, back right on juggy face past 4 bolts. back left
to reach thin crack near bolt. 5.10a move to gain crack. Up
moderate face on left side to belay at apex of face. 120'.
2 raps to ground.
FA - Joel Ager, Clint Cummins, 5/2000
3. The Syllable 5.8
Squeeze chimney past scary-looking flake.
4. The Sequel 5.8 *
Nice juggy face and clean, direct chimney.
5. Remain in Light 5.11a **
A fairly sustained sport route.
It doesn't have quite the "line" or "position" the other routes
have, but it's on fun rock.
p1: 5.7 face on outside of buttress (shown in topo as left var. start
to Blind Man's Bluff). 80'
p2: 5.11a overhanging to vertical juggy face, just right of Sequel
chimney. 7 bolts. 80'
p3. 5.11a steep face to climactic final bulge. 6 bolts. 60'
p4. 5.8 juggy face. 2 bolts. 100' Rap route from here.
p5. 5.4 juggy crack to top of buttress.
FA - Joel Ager, Clint Cummins, 10/1999
6. Blind Man's Bluff 5.9 *
This looks like an interesting adventure.
7. Blind Alley 5.9 *
Steep face with decent line on prow of buttress.
Some moss on second pitch, and less steep above that, so we rapped
from a horn on the arete. The 160' rap from the top of the first
pitch reaches the top of the 3rd class buttress, which you then
downclimb.
8. Braille Book 5.8 ***
The area classic.
9. Blinded by the Light 5.10c **
The juggy face on the right
wall of Braille Book. Starts by doing the first pitch of Braille
Book; then heads out right. Mostly 5.8/5.9. P3 has an interesting
clean crack through a white bulge, then the crux thin face moves
past a bolt. The final pitch is an easy 5.6 hand crack to some
5.8 fingerlocks and face. Rap route.
Topo
FA - Joel Ager, Clint Cummins, 5/1999
10. Perfect Vision 5.11c **
Interesting arete position, visually
isolated from Braille Book. It has garnered some complaints
because some of the bolts are ugly (5/16" was in vogue at the
time, but drill bits were undersized, and we really had to
beat hard to sink them; sometimes the hanger was hit instead
by our wild blows! However, the bolts are quite strong; they
may look ugly, but they will *not* come out). Also, the
crux is very hard (very long reach move, then a tricky lunge
out right), and many people have been stumped. The reach move
can be aided using a new bolt, and the lunge is well protected.
The route was probably overstarred at *** (not my fault), but it
is still pretty cool.
If you aren't up for the hard crux moves, you can approach via Blinded by the Light to the main ledge. Then you can go out right to the lower arete pitch which we just added in 6/2000 at 5.10d. The upper arete pitch is even nicer at 5.11a. The final pitch is a steep 5.9 adventure.
11. Book of Job 5.10c *
The steep corner on the right side of
the buttress, which some people have mistaken for the Braille
Book. A challenging route.
trip report
12. The Dictionary 5.8?
The big dirty corner; probably not fun.
