Some memorable early climbs

Here are a few climbs that I remember fairly well, mostly before the days of the email trip reports.

early mountains in Washington state with my dad

1972: Mt. Buckner: dad, mom, Bob, Mrs., Chris Ringlee
From Horseshoe Basin. When we reached the summit ridge, Chris looked over the (1000+') edge and about freaked. We descended (roped) down the steep snowfield.
1970s: The Tooth - South Face: dad, Jim and Cathy Wood
My first rappel (dulfersitz, I think), with 300+' of exposure. I didn't want to trust the rope (very normal).
1972: Mt. Temple (near Leavenworth): dad, Jim and Cathy Wood
I couldn't watch my dad lead the final part - too exposed and I didn't understand that he could really be safely belayed. Cathy didn't summit because she didn't like the exposed final part. On the way down, I was worried that I was moving too carelessly, as if I was still being belayed.
1970s: Lemah Peak: dad, Jim and Cathy Wood
There was rime ice on some faces and the final pitch of the highest summit. I forgot my sunglasses for the snowfield and had to "squint".
1970s: Chimney Rock: dad and Steve ____ (Jim Wood, too?)
We had a 300' x 3/8" goldline rope. It made long rappels possible, but also made massive tangles. I pulled off a handhold when downclimbing but fortunately didn't fall.
1970s: Mt. Stuart - Southeast Side: dad
The final section (roped) was dramatic. And the long glissade is probably the best I've ever done. Kevin Scott Clark was with us, but quit halfway up.
1973: The Cruiser (Olympic Mtns): dad
It was foggy on the summit ridge. We climbed up the regular route and rappelled on our new blue Edelrid kernmantle rope. Repeated the route and rappelled again. I soloed a route to the left which was harder (5.6 or 5.7). Probably I should have been roped for it, but I was solid on it.
1974: Sherpa Peak and balanced rock: dad, mom, and Mark Whitmore
Approached via Mountaineer Creek and did the NE Face, which is low class 4-5. I aided the Balanced Rock on a bolt.
1974: Liberty Bell and nearby spires: dad
We did the notch route on Liberty Bell, which was exposed and hard at the start.
1974: Dragontail Peak - direct N Face: dad
We soloed too far before roping up, partly because it was hard to stop (no ledges or obvious cracks for anchors). I followed my dad solo on a wet section, and I was amazed he had done it. We roped up and the climbing was much easier. Up high there was a corner with verglas. My dad aided it by pounding in a bugaboo piton, which he eventually stood on. Easier to the top.
1974: Lightning Crack (Peshastin Pinnacles): dad
We ran into Jim Nelson and his partner at Colchuck Lake after Dragontail. They recommended this route. I led p1 with some aid, and my dad led the main pitch in his Converse All-Star sneakers with some aid. It took him awhile. He did quite a few of the moves free. After this, we didn't do much more rock climbing together - I think it had been too scary. Later I went back with Scott Clark and led both pitches free (5.9 and 5.8).
1974: Bugaboo Spire - SE Ridge: dad, Jim Wood
On our first attempt, we got trapped just below the Gendarme in a lightning storm. Bolts were hitting down the ridge from us. Dad and Jim got ground currents. Eventually the bolts stopped hitting and we hurried down the ridge. Dad and I went back in nice weather and bagged it. Jim had some trouble breathing and did an alternative climb.

high school climbs

1974: bouldering at Monitor/Sherman Rock in West Seattle
I made Saturday bike trips there all spring. I wired the problems (up to 5.8/5.9) in my mountain boots. On one trip, I shifted my derailleur into the spokes and had to do extensive on-the-spot repairs with a few tools and a brick I found. I still made it to the rock. On another, it was dark/cold on the return, and I called in a "rescue" from my mom from a phone booth down in the valley west of Kent.
1975: Snow Creek Wall - Orbit: Ron Linebarger
Mr. Linebarger was my high school math teacher, and I often asked him about the rock climbs he did when he was a student at the UW. About 3/4 of the way up the route, at a very exposed belay above the headwall lieback, he told me that he was "digging it, but didn't choose to do this sort of thing anymore". It was cool, but of course I was very gung ho, and hoped I'd never tone down my climbing. On a previous trip to Icicle Creek, I had soloed some climbs to try to impress him. We also did one short route that he insisted was 5.8. At the time, I thought I couldn't climb 5.8, so it "must be easier". It was good to get some experienced perspective.
6/1975: Prusik Peak - South Face (Beckey route), Boxtop: Bob Adair
Prusik Peak was multipitch, which felt like a good adventure. Boxtop starts with a "step across". I picked a spot and did a very hard step across. Bob managed to convince me that the real (easier) step across was in fact lower.
1975: Index Town Wall - Davis-Holland: Bob Adair
We borrowed a pair of Jumars from Mr. Linebarger for this. I led the first pitch (5.9) free. When Bob weighted the rope, all the gear pulled out (sideways); he wasn't pleased. I led the main pitch with some aid at bulges. Bob wanted to do the next pitch, his first aid lead. I sat in belay slings for several hours, noting both eastbound and westbound trains on the tracks far below. In spite of one fall, he made it, and we hurried to the top.
We walked left to find the rappel, which me made in the fading light. We walked back right along the base in the dark (we had no headlamps), but came to an cliff/impasse. I tried to swing down on a limb, but I was on a cliff, and had to get Bob to grab the limb and swing me back. We started rappelling straight down cliffs of unknown height in the dark. Fortunately, our single rope always reached, as I was going down blind and didn't even have the Jumars handy in case the rope ran out. Eventually, we were going down a talus field with very large blocks, and we couldn't tell if we were at a 5' or 50' drop, so we stopped. Our first unplanned bivouac, in t-shirts. Bob put his head in the pack, and I put my head into my shirt and draped our rope over myself. At dawn we went down. I found out my parents had prayed for us at church that morning.

college climbs

fall/1975: Crow Hill - Cromagnon: Nancy Kerrebrock
I led this free to the last move, which was a sloping hold covered in dirt. Nancy rescued me by lowering a rope from the top. I also made cat noises near the talus, and Nancy helped in fooling her dad into thinking a cat was in the talus.
3/1976: Cannon Mountain - Labyrinth Wall: Michael Lehner
spring/1976: Gunks - Shockley's Ceiling, Double Clutch, Low Exposure (fall): solo
spring/1976: Seneca Rocks - West Pole: solo
10/1976: Gunks - Retribution, Birdie Party, Ringwraith, Up Against the Wall (fall): Andrew Embick
12/1976: Eldorado - Ruper, Super Slab, T2, Long's Peak - Kiener's: Chris Kaiser
12/1976: Eldorado - T2, NW Corner of Bastille: Andrew Embick
8/1977: Mt. Stuart - Direct North Ridge: solo
9/1977: Yosemite: Royal Arches, Middle Cathedral - East Buttress, Fairview North Face: Chris Kaiser
1/1978: Lake Willoughby - Called on Account of Rains, Mt. Kineo - Mainline: John Imbrie
1/1978: Whitehorse Ledge (fall): John Imbrie

later mountains in Washington state with my dad

1987?: Bonanza Peak: dad, Jack and Nancy Kerrebrock
1989: Whitehorse Mountain: dad, Jack Kerrebrock
1990?: Forbidden Peak: dad
1993: Goode Peak: dad
1994: Slesse Peak: dad

after moving to California

5/1985: El Capitan - Nose: John Holt
5/1985: El Capitan - Salathe': John Imbrie, Dennis Drayna
10/1985: El Capitan - Lurking Fear: John Lockhart
6/1986: El Capitan - Zodiac: John Lockhart
7/1986: Fairest of All, Blues Riff, Half Dome - NW Face: Joel Ager
7/1986: Eldorado - Rosy Crucifixion, Yellow Spur, Outer Space: Joel Ager
7/1986: Long's Peak - Diamond - Casual Route: Joel Ager
3/1987?: El Capitan - Dorn Direct/Shield: John Lockhart, Jack Wenzel
6/1987: Wolf Rock (Oregon) - Barad-Dur, Smith Rock - Karate Crack, Monkey Face: Nancy Kerrebrock
10/1987?: El Capitan - Never Never Land: John Lockhart, Jack Wenzel, Nancy Kerrebrock