Pinnacles - Proclamation Pinnacle, Citadel Stream Boulders - 11/17-18/2005  Brad

Brad needed a midweek, pre-Thanksgiving partner for some guidebook research,
so I signed up!

11/17 - Up Juniper Canyon to the High Peaks, with Brad editing the overview
map along the way.  I checked out most of the Tombstone and Chaos Crags solo
in my hiking boots, and posed for a photo on the Wedge.

At Proclamation Pinnacle (South summit), Brad led the "South Chute" which
faces the trail.  Brad was trying to follow the route description in the
1995 Rubine guide, but it was a little unclear, and it turns out this was
a first ascent.  The start of the route was 5.8 (not 5.5 as stated in the
guide).  The 5.5 start described in the guide is the face just to the right
which leads to a small tree, and then a slot and traverse right to the
regular route.  So there are now 3 routes to the south summit of
Proclamation Pinnacle.  The South Chute needs a bolt, which I've been
tasked to add at some point.  When Brad led it, he climbed up to the small
tree on the right and tied it off for pro with several runners, then
downclimbed back and left.  The upper part could possible be protected by
gear, although Brad didn't place any.  There is one somewhat rusty 3/8"
rawldrive bolt on top, a candidate for replacement.  We downclimbed the
regular route solo to descend.

Next we hiked down the trail a bit and descended NW to the base of the
north face, where Brad led the North Summit Crack in one long pitch with
a little simulclimbing.  The crack is 5.6 and takes decent gear; the chimney
is 5.4, long and fairly airy.

Our next stop was the Egg.  Instead of trying to traverse from Proclamation,
we went up the main trail and descended next to Little Javelina.  I managed
to locate one of the bolts on the old Higgins project on the far left side
of the south face, by soloing around in my hiking boots.

Next stop was a 2-bolt 5.8 route done by DES and friends on a small crag to
the NW.  Brad found it and led; I followed.  Down the cross country descent
and back to the car before dark.

11/18 - we got an earlier start, and arrived at the West Side gate to find
it closed and another car waiting.  Brad called information and then the
main park number; a person came out from the West Side to try to open it.
He didn't have much luck for awhile.  Apparently the battery of the electric
gate is small and has problems on cold mornings.  Eventually he tried
driving his truck over the metal detector again and it worked that time.
He mentioned that there were some abandoned slings visible from Bouldering
Rock and I said I'd remove them.

We walked in to the Shepherd area, where Brad looked at Jon Cochrane's
short bolted routes opposite Passion Play.  In the meantime, I dropped my
pack at Bouldering Rock and saw the slings - up on Hummingbird Spire.
Apparently someone had rappelled off the south side instead of the
north side.  I hiked up, put on my shoes and soloed up the notch chimney
to move the slings back to the north side.  To fix the problem permanently
would require a new set of anchor bolts on the north side and some chains.

We hiked up the Citadel stream, where the trail to Citadel has been
improved a bit and switchbacks reinforced by the NPS trail crew.
We located the boulder which Brad had previously identified as the
Citadel Stream Boulder.  It had 2 Rawlbolts on top, but no hangers.
I added hangers to them, and we toproped the east face, which is 5.10d.
We tried to locate the other routes in the guidebook on the north face,
but just found loose rock and poison oak.

We then descended back down the trail and down part of the old trail
to the streambed, which had been bypassed by the current routing of the
trail on the hillside to the east.  Here was the original Citadel Stream
Boulder which David and I had checked out back in August 1990.
We toproped the 2 north face routes using the tree branch as an anchor,
and Brad managed to locate 2 bolts above the east face with thick
rusty homemade hangers.  So we toproped the east face below the
bolts as well.  I also toproped a short route on the right side of
the east face, after I promised Brad I wouldn't add it to the 
"master list", so that he wouldn't feel compelled to do it....

So there are 2 of these boulders with decent routes on them!
Upon further checking of the 1989 JR guide, 3 such boulders are indicated
on page 17.