Pinnacles - Machete Ridge new route - 12/7/2005  Bruce

Bruce led p1 of the West Face route with his pack, and I jumared with
my pack.  We traversed over to the base of the dark waterstreak which is
to the right of Bill's Bad Bolts; this was the new route we had been
eyeing for awhile.

I pulled a 1/4" Star Drive (non-rusty) bolt from the left base of the streak
with Bruce's crowbar.  I then started placing a good 3/8" belay/aid bolt,
while Bruce set about refurbishing the rappel anchor near p1 of the West Face,
as well as replacing hangers on it and adding a second bolt to the far left
bolt to make a good belay station.

I placed 2 aid bolts, reaching far up and right on the overhanging rock.
The second one turned into a bit of an epic because I was having a lot of
trouble turning or extracting my drill bit, because it was so far up near
the limit of my reach, and my back was getting tired of the strain.

We swapped the lead and Bruce drilled the 3rd aid bolt, reaching up quite
far.  I took a rest/lunch/snooze in the nice grassy area below and right.

I went up and placed the 4th aid bolt.  Another long reach, but not quite
as steep, and I used Bruce's drill so the binding problem was not so bad.

We rapped/downclimbed/hiked out in the fading light.  It was so nice not
to have to rush out like in the previous years with the gate hours and $100
fine for being late!  I even managed to coast around the S-turn and up
over the little hill, after Bruce told me that he had managed it recently!