Pinnacles - Disco + Mono, 3/17/04 - Lin Murphy

A nice Thursday with no crowds and beautiful weather.
I led all routes, except the Big Pucker, which we toproped.

1. Wet Kiss 5.9, warmup.
2. The Big Pucker 5.10d, we toproped.  I went over the right
   side of the bulge, with the undercling.  Lin tried 2x going
   over the left side but couldn't make the reach.
3. Stupendous Entrance 5.9.  We skipped the initial roof of
   Stupendous Man by doing Entrance.  Then stepped left to clip
   S.M.'s second bolt and up its fun face.
4. Mammary Pump 5.10d.  I had to try several times at the crux,
   where the old lieback flake is broken.  I ended up doing it
   with a long reach move, like last time.  Lin couldn't make the
   moves through the initial roofs to the fixed pin, so I cleaned
   it on rappel.
5. The Roof 5.10c.  I took awhile trying to arrange protection
   near the end; I wasn't able to get anything very good except
   a slightly opposed #1 TCU + wire.  But I could clip the anchor
   chains from about this point anyway.  Lin made it free to the
   chains but didn't get established on the ledge right of the chains.
6. Monolith - Lower North Face 5.10d.  This is 5.10d for someone with
   a long reach like me.  Lin cannot reach the initial finger holds,
   which makes it much harder (she didn't make it).
7. Rocket in My Pocket 5.10d?  Lin attempted this on toprope, but
   got stopped.  I didn't try it - it looks tough.
8. P.O.D. 5.10d.  I led this via the "original" right hand start.
   Lin tried toproping via the direct start (5.11a).  She had one
   fall/hang at the second bolt.
9. Foreplay 5.11a.  I tried to lead this, and had it clean until
   the crux below the last bolt.  Here my strength faded suddenly
   and I had a hang to recover.  After the hang I was able to
   make the crux moves, although I was pumped and it was difficult
   to clip the rope into the last bolt.  Plus the moves past it found
   me making a couple of lunges!