Recent Updates to New Routes
Check here if you want to see what's newest on the new routes list.
- 11/05
367.5 Le Petite Morte 5.10c, 4x, waterstreak
on south face of Resurrection Wall
- 3/05
24b Melvin Direct Start 5.10b, 1x
- 2/05
7.9 Rat Face 5.10+ tr, face and roof 10' left of Rat Race
- 4/04
- 79.6 Gorillas in the Moss 5.12d, 8x, 25' left
of Ape Index.
- 12/03
- 458.5 Frosted Flake 5.6, 3x, 2x anchor on top.
- 8/03
- 289.3 new route 5.7/5.8 R *, 3x. Starts with 2 new bolts right of
Tilting Terrace.
- 289.6 new route 5.5?. Starts with 2 bolts of Lichen to Lead.
- 4/03
- 411.3 Angle Iron 5.10+, 5x, on West face of the Flatiron.
- 354.1 new route 5.5, 8x, 10' right of Destiny (Dos Equis)
- 3/03
- 288.2 Romper Room 5.10+, 7x, 75' right of Drizzly Drain
- 289.1 new route 5.7/5.8, 4-5x. [left of Adam's Apple]
- 261.8 The Big Bad West 5.4, 5x
- 262.4 No Plan B 5.9/5.10a, 4x
- 262.5 Leprechaun 5.10d, 4x
- 262.6 Rumplestiltskin 5.9/5.10a, 4x
- 262.7 middle problem 5.10?
- 262.8 Curvature 5.9/5.10a, 2x, 20' high
- 355.2
Machete Ridge - Sons of the West 5.10d A1 (name and FA info updated)
- 364.6 Cat & Mouse 5.5, 2p, 6x
- 364.8 Barry Beat Me To It A1, 3x
- 2/03
- 0.9
Heavens to Murgatroid 5.11c, 2x, pro: many thin to 2.5".
Faint waterstreak to thin crack, about 50' left of Bat Cave.
- 1.1
Beasto 5.8/5.9, dark black waterstreak to chimney,
on right margin of the overhanging Bat Cave face
- 445.5
Miss Piggy 5.5, 3x, near Spike's Peak
- 1/03
- 7.2
Pickpocket 5.11b, 7x, just left of the Tourist Trap
- 9/02
- 300.
Conduit to the Cosmos 5.11 A1 or A4+, 3rd pitch now completed to
the top of the Balconies, 11x, 115' to rap anchors.
- 3/02
- 350.5
Bandits in Bondage - second pitch 5.11, 6x
- 2/02
- 355.2
Machete Ridge - The Waterchute 5.10d A1 (description updated)
- 226.9
The Unmentionable - Erectile Dysfunction 5.10a, 4x (bolted on rappel)
- 12/01
- 3. Grand Delusion 5.11a, led free.
- 199. White Punks on Rope 5.11a, 11x
- 11/01
- 3. Grand Delusion 5.11c tr, now free. (formerly named Delusion Overhang).
- photo added for Love Line (below)
- 7/01
- 339.2 Barber's Backside 5.6 * X. Reverse the rappel
descent from Old Original.
- 348.4 Trident 5.8, just left of Alias Bandits Bench
- 351. Gary and Phyllis' Headwall 5.9, listed as "Upper Bandit Bench"
in the guide.
- 352b. Miller Time 5.6 R, listed as "Young in Deed" in the 1995 guide.
- 354. Dos Equis 5.8 ***. Added FA info and original 2 bolts.
- 50.9 Horizon Line Variation 5.10a
- 51.5 Horizon Line Direct 5.10c PG+
story / trip report
- story and topo added for Love Line (below)
- 5/01
- 7.5 The Plummers Crack 5.7, FA info corrected and name changed
- 150.8 Love Line 5.10c R (on The Hand)
story / trip report
topo
- 282.8 old route 5.7?, - topo added
- 4/01
(corrections added to many routes, using info from Brad Young)
- 0.7 Half Dollar Dihedral 5.8, a curved left facing corner
- 185.5 newly found route 5.6, 4x, 30' left of On a Pale Horse.
- 225.2 Scragglepuss 5.7, 4x, right of Rightfoot on Pipsqueak Pinnacle
map and topo
- 3/01
- 141.5 old route 5.8 *, 8x, 1 fixed pin.
- 277.5 Big Nixon 5.9, 4x.
- 282.8 old route 5.7?, 5x, climbs the south face of the formation above
and right (south) of the Game Show.
- 289.5 old route 5.6?, 2x?, on the rib where Tilting Terrace starts.
- 348.5 new route 5.9 *, 13x. Starts right of the bouldering arch;
- 355.2 The Waterchute 5.9 A2, obvious multipitch waterchute right of
Son of Dawn Wall
- 2/01
- 243.2 Hate 5.10b, 5.10b bouldering start to 5.8 lieback
topo
map
- 243.3 Discontent 5.10c, sustained crack.
- 243.6 Raven Rot 5.6, left facing corner, right traverse
topo
- 243.7 Buzzard Bile 5.6, right facing arch/crack, roof, face.
- 243.8 Vulture Vomit 5.10 tr, face
- 1/01
- 39.9 Holiday Ordeal 5.10a tr, face just left of the Ordeal corner
- 203.7 Ashes to Ashes, Dust to Dust 5.10b, 3 pitches, 9x, 1 fixed pin.
- 207.5 Terminal Buttress - Lost Again variation 5.9?,
goes up the line shown for 207a in the guidebook.
topo
- 311. Better Without Bushes 5.9, now free. (formerly named Crack Climb).
- 12/2000
- 289.2 Nipples and Knobs 5.10a, 7x. Starts on first bolt of Tilting Terrace.
- 354.2 Beyond Destiny 5.7, 8x. Right of Destiny.
- 11/2000
- 70.9 The Behr-ens of Sanity 5.5 R, left of Limp at Last.
- 99.6 La Lin~a Mas Natural 5.8 R/X, skip the last 2 bolts of The Pearl
Sheath and finish up the mossy arete.
- 9/2000
- 354.9 Robots of Dawn 5.10d/5.11a, 7x, 15-20' left of Son of Dawn Wall.
topo
- 6/2000
- 7.5 Reg's Crack 5.8, 0x, left of Wee Little One
- 4/2000
- 189.1 new route 5.8 R, 3x, just right of Only a Lad, left of
diagonal crack
- 189.4 new route 5.8 R, 3x, right of diagonal crack
- 374.9 Hand Tools 5.8/5.10a, 1x, easier start to Power Corrupts
- 3/2000
- 2/2000
- 1/2000
- 143.5 Volcanic Panic 5.10d
- 220.6 Armed with Madness 5.10d
- 220.7 Stone Crazy 5.9
- 231.2 Pinched and Lynched 5.6
- 288.4 Wet Paranoia 5.9 tr
- 288.6 Bits n' Pieces Direct Finish 5.8
- 288.7 Kibbles and Bits 5.9
- 11/99
- 8/99
- 0.2 Spanky 5.6, short hand crack
- 0.3 Trailside Tramp Corner 5.7
- 0.4 Are you O.K. 5.7, loose corner
- 0.5 Exhibitionist 5.10a, obvious corner then ...
- 1.5 Bushwackin' Dave 5.8, go up chimney, turn corner ...
- 2. Contraband Crack 5.9, (FFA)
- 145.9 Get a Grip 5.10a *** (final name for route - was Unabomber)
- 5/99
- 7.7 new route 5.8 -- description revised slightly
- 37.2 Jorgie's On Crack -- old bolts replaced.
- 3/99
- 37.2 Jorgie's On Crack (original aid finish to Jorgie's Crack) 5.11a
- 2/99
- 246.6 Crazy Quail 5.8 *
- 246.7 Tom Turkey 5.4
- 1/99
- 7.7 new route 5.8, 3x, between Angstroms Away and Rat Race
- 246.1 The Hippopotamus 5.9 A1, the fixed stopper is likely the high point ...
- 246.4 Holmgren route 5.10?, on the Hippopotamus north face
- 246.8 Wild Turkey 5.10b R, left of Dutch Goose
- 247. Dutch Goose 5.10b, now free.
topo
- 247.5 new route 5.9, 8x, slab right of Dutch Goose
- 12/98
- 27.3 Big Pucker Direct 5.10c, (led in 1994 or earlier)
- 88.5 Hawaiian Tango 5.10d tr, start on Hawaiian Noises, ...