Mark Fletcher
6 Dec 2000 08:20

On November 26 I did some rebolting of several climbs on the west side of
the Pinnacles.  I had climbed all of these climbs two days earlier with a
partner.

"The Shepherd" (5.11 or 5.4, A1)

This is the first climb you come to hiking in from the west side parking
lot.  I easily pulled the first 3/8" x 2" Star Dryvin bolt and homemade
S.S. strap hanger from the rock.  This bolt was replaced in the same hole
with a 3/8" x 3-1/2" Rawl 6-piece bolt and a Kong S.S. hanger painted rust
color.  The second 3/8" x 2" Star Dryvin bolt and homemade steel strap
hanger were also easily pulled.  They were replaced with a 3/8" x 3-1/2"
Rawl 6-piece bolt and a Kong S.S. hanger painted rust color.  The third
bolt on the boulder, a 3/8" x 2" Star Dryvin bolt and a homemade aluminum
"ring" hanger, was easily pulled and replaced with a 3/8" x 3-1/2" Rawl
6-piece bolt and Kong S.S. hanger painted rust color.

The first bolt on the main rock had already been replaced with a modern
bolt and hanger.  I had some difficulty pulling the second bolt on the main
rock, a Star Dryvin bolt and a homemade strap iron hanger.  I replaced this
second bolt on the main rock in the same hole with a 3/8" x 3-1/2" Rawl
6-piece bolt and a Kong S.S. hanger painted rust color.  There is one belay
bolt at the top of the main rock, but a large rock knob can be slung to
create a two point belay.

I also removed an unused Star Dryvin bolt and Leeper hanger from the top of
the smaller boulder.  Probably this was used as a single top rope anchor at
one time, but it did not appear to be used recently.  This bolt and hanger
was not replaced.

Bolts Removed:  5, Bolts Replaced:  4

"Rumbling Rampart" (5.6)

As the guidebook notes, this climb is very loose.  The second bolt was a
3/8" threaded stud type bolt which was installed as I found it with only
half of the nut threads engaged onto the stud.  I removed the nut and
hanger to allow access to the rock.  I then gently chipped away the rock
near the stud to allow the hanger to sit deeper in the rock.  I replaced
the Petzl S.S. hanger with a Kong S.S. hanger painted rust color since the
Kong hanger was less thick than the Petzl hanger.  The stud threads now
fully engage all threads of the nut.

The fourth bolt consisted of a slightly loose 5/16" threaded stud bolt.  I
tried to pull the threaded stud, but the stud broke at the threads.  The
broken bolt was punched back into the hole.  I replaced this broken bolt in
a new hole about 3" away with a Rawl 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt and the existing
Metolius tan S.S. hanger.

One of the top belay bolts is a 5/16" threaded stud type, but I did not
want to attempt to take this bolt out since I probably would have broken
the bolt.  The other top belay bolt is a 3/8" Rawl bolt.  Although the bolt
section of the guidebook lists only four protection bolts on this climb, I
found five protection bolt.

Bolts Pulled or Broken:  1, Bolts Placed:  1, Hangers Replaced:  1

Elephant Rock "Regular Route" (5.6)

I added a single bottom belay bolt consisting of a 3/8" x 3-1/2" bolt and a
Kong S.S. hanger painted rust color.  This bottom belay bolt was added to
allow setting up a solo belay and to prevent a belayer from being pulled
into the narrow chimney from an angled stance if the leader fell.

I replaced the homemade angle iron hanger on the first protection bolt with
a Kong S.S. hanger painted rust color.  The existing 3/8" stud bolt and nut
were used when replacing the hanger.  I then replaced the homemade angle
iron hanger on the second protection bolt with a Kong S.S. hanger painted
rust color.  The existing 5/16" sleeve stud bolt and nut were used during
the hanger replacement, but I gently chipped away the rock around the bolt
to allow the hanger to remain flat and prevent carabiner interference.  At
the top of the climb, I replaced a Leeper hanger with Kong S.S. hanger
painted rust colored.  The existing 3/8" stud bolt and nut when used when
replacing the hanger.

Bolts Pulled:  0, Bolts Placed:  1, Hangers Replaced:  3

Mark Fletcher