November 3, 2001 Pinnacles National Monument, West Side, High Peaks Area "Flatiron Northeast Face ? Regular Route, Variation 1 and Variation 2" (1st pitch only) (5.3 and 5.0) ** (Climb 408) Currently all good 3/8" bolts and modern hangers of the first pitches of these two climbs. The rebolting work was done by Sid Hill, Florence Scholl, and Mark Fletcher. Bolts Pulled: 8; Bolts Replaced: 8; Hangers Replaced: 1 Details: At the belay station, we easily pulled a 3/8" x 2-1/4" Star Dryvin bolt and a Leeper hanger. We replaced the bolt in the same hole with a 3/8" x 3-1/2" Rawl 5-piece bolt and a Fixe S.S. rappel ring hanger. We easily pulled a 3/8" x 2-1/4" Star Dryvin bolt and a funky homemade bent stock hanger from a hole located about 3" from the other bolt, but the entire rock broke away. We did not use this hole for a new bolt, since it was too close to the other bolt. We drilled about hole located 1-1/2 ft. away from the other hole to avoid hollow rock. We installed a 3/8" x 3-1/2" Rawl 5-piece bolt and a Fixe S.S. rappel ring hanger. Then Sid and I rappelled down and began replacing the protection bolts. We easily pulled a ¼" x 2" threaded split-shaft bolt and a Leeper hanger. This bolt had partially pulled out from the rock by a leader fall at one point. We replaced the bolt in the same hole with a 3/8" x 3-1/2" Rawl 5-piece bolt and a Kong S.S. hanger painted brown. Next, we pulled a 3/8" x 2-1/2" Star Dryvin bolt and a homemade aluminum strap hanger (death hanger!). We drilled the existed hole and installed a 3/8" x 3-1/2" Rawl 5-piece bolt and a Kong S.S. hanger painted brown. Next, we rappelled down and found a hangerless and nutless ¼" x 1-1/2" split-shaft bolt. I was able to pull it out by hitting the bolt back and forth and then pulled it out with vice grip pliers. Only ½" of the bolt was engaged into the rock. This bolt location is not shown in the current guidebook (probably because the bolt stud was not noticed), but is directly above the first protection bolt on the Variation 2 climb. We drilled out the hole and placed a 3/8" x 3-1/2" Rawl 5-piece bolt and a Kong S.S. hanger painted brown. We then traversed sideways on rappel to just under an overhang. We very easily pulled a ¼" x 1-1/2" threaded split-shaft bolt and an old-style SMC hanger. We then drilled out the existing hole and placed a 3/8" x 3-1/2" Rawl 5-piece bolt and a Fixe S.S. hanger painted brown. We then rappelled down, but Sid could not traverse to the next bolt, so I handled the work on this bolt. I pulled a 3/8" x 2-1/2" Star Dryvin bolt intact with the sleeve and a Leeper hanger from the hole. After drilling out the hole, I placed a 3/8" x 3-1/2" Rawl 5-piece bolt and a Kong S.S. hanger painted brown. I then rappelled down to Sid at the next bolt. This bolt was a 3/8" Wedj-it bolt of unknown length. Since it was placed very well and would not be easy to pull, despite the questionable bolt type, we replaced only the Leeper hanger with a Kong S.S. hanger painted brown. I used only one of the two existing washers and the existing nut. Next, I ascended the rope back to the third bolt, removed the quickdraw directional placement, and then traversed to the first bolt of the "Flatiron Northeast Face ? Regular Route, Variation 2" climb. While I did this, Sid got to practice ascending the rope on prussik knots. I easily broke a homemade aluminum strap hanger (death hanger!) while trying to pull out the 3/8" x 2" Star Dryvin bolt. I drilled out the hole and placed a 3/8" x 3-1/2" Rawl 5-piece bolt and a Kong S.S. hanger painted brown. November 10, 2001 Pinnacles National Monument, West Side, High Peaks Area "Squareblock Rock Crack" (5.5) Rebolting work done by Mark Fletcher Bolts Pulled: 3, Bolts Replaced: 3 Details: This is an excellent squeeze chimney climb, but requires quite a bit of bushwhacking to get to the rock from the High Peaks Trail. I easily pulled the 1/4" x 2" buttonhead split-shaft bolt and Leeper hanger from the rock. The bolt was only partially engaged in the rock and was described as "bad" in the guidebook. I drilled out the existing hole and then replaced the bolt with a 3/8" x 3-1/2" Rawl 5-piece bolt and a Kong S.S. hanger painted brown. Although this bolt is described in the guidebook as a belay bolt for the first pitch, I think it was installed as the only protection bolt for pitch 2. At the top of the climb, I easily cut away the nylon webbing which crumbled and ripped in my hands. I then pulled a 3/8" x 2-1/2" Star Dryvin bolt with a homemade strap aluminum hanger and quicklink. The sleeve of the Star Dryvin bolt was not driven into the hole completely when the bolt was originally placed. I drilled out the existing hole and then place a 3/8" x 3-1/2" Rawl 5-piece bolt and a Fixe S.S. rappel ring hanger. The second bolt at the top had a Metolius tan hanger, but nut on the compression stud bolt was fully tightened yet the hanger was very loose. The bolt also wobbled slightly. I easily pulled the 3/8" x 4" compression stud bolt from the hole because the stud was never originally driven in far enough to allow the button to expand the tip of the bolt. I replaced this bolt with a 3/8" x 3-1/2" Rawl 5-piece bolt using the existing Metolius tan hanger. I installed a threaded quicklink and the two rappel rings on the Metolius hanger to allow rappelling from the two anchors. Two ropes are needed to rappel to the bottom or (as I had to do) you can rappel to the notch, pull the rope, and then downclimb the third class chimney to the other side of the rock.