Cal Domes routes rev. 8/24/04 Clint Cummins
Ghetto Wall (approach from above, down left side of wall)
1. Shattered Sole 5.9 *, pro to 3", 75', up and left from other routes,
visible NW from approach gully.
2. Ghetto B 5.10c R, 3x, small pro at horizontal crack (cams + Lowe Balls)
3. Ghetto C 5.10a, 3x, small pro
4. Ghetto C right start 5.6?, 3x, small pro
5. Bitch Botch the Bolt 5.9, 2x, small pro
6. Guy-N-I 5.8, 3x
7. In-Out/Up-Down 5.8, 3x, 2p (2 pitches), one 1.5-2" piece for p2
Sargent Rock
8. finger crack 5.11c/d *, finger crack in 30' 100-degree boulder,
200' below Sargent Rock
9. R-diagonalling 5.11+?, 1x, 1fp (fixed pin), 2x anch., 100' L of Starting Line
10. Starting Line 5.11c
11. Sargent flake L side 5.7, bolts on top now?, 30' high
12. Sargent flake R side 5.5
13. Panic at the Pumps 5.10a *, hand traverse, some fist
Silver Streak Slab
Approach: cross aqueduct on wooden bridge left of center.
Descent from top right side: 105?/125?' rappel, 165' rappel.
14. SS V 5.9+, 4x
15. SS W 5.10c, 6x
16. Riptide 5.10b, 2p, small wires, Friends #1-3, 1x on p2
17. SS U 5.10a, 5x
18. SS Y 5.10a, 7x, small to medium cam for initial bulge or clip 2nd x of Z
19. SS Z 5.10d, 9x
20. Captain's Paradise var. 5.10c, 1x, wires, 2fp, stays in corner
21. Captain's Paradise 5.9, 3x, wires
22. On the Beach 5.9, 4x, 2p, starting from upper ramp
23. Silver Streak 5.8, 4x, 2p, starting from upper ramp
24. SS H 5.9+, 4x, up lower slab to start of Captain's Paradise
25. Hang Nail 5.9, 1x
26. Fickle Finger Crack var. 5.10b R
27. Fickle Finger Crack 5.9, 2p to upper ramp
28. Get Over It 5.10b, 4x, ("P" on topo)
FA: Dennis Nousaine, mid 1990s
29. Sendero Blanco 5.10d, 8x, white streak, ("Q" on topo)
FA: Dennis Nousaine, mid 1990s
30. Silver Streak direct start 5.10a, 2x
31. SS T 5.10d, 6x
32. SS S 5.8, climb under right-facing flake, 2p
33. SS R 5.10?, bolts to flake
34. Picolo Pete 5.10?, ?x, right of the other climbs
Hammer Dome
35. Set the Controls for the Heart of the Sun 5.11 *, 3p, 20x replaced
p1: 5.11 with 5.10a R mantle (25' out), p2: 5.10 2x, p3: 5.9 1x
FA: Paul Crawford, Karl McConachie, 1981
36. Welcome to My Nightmare 5.11b, Friends at roof, 13x replaced
37. Stage Fright 5.9 *, poison oak?, 3-4p, first 2p *
FA: Jay Smith, Jeff Altenburg, 1978
38. Travelin' Man 5.10d, 3p, p1: 5.10d 6x, RPs, Friends #2,3, p2: 5.9 3x, ...
39. Corn Cob (aka Gully Cat) 5.8, 4p
FA(recorded): Walt Vennum, Greg Donaldson, May 1972
40. Pressure Wave 5.10c, 3p, p1: 7x, p2: 5x, p3: 6x
FA: Ron Felton, Gary Beddard, 2/4/95
41. Gemini Cracks 5.8 *, 3-5p
FA: Brian Cox, Greg Donaldson, June 1972
42. Gemini flake var. 5.8/9, p2
43. Gemini direct start
44. Smoke Screen 5.10c *, 5-6p, p1: 5.10a 2x, p2: 5.10c 7x, p3: 5.10a 3x, ...
FA: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, 1980
45. Itsy Bitsy Variation 5.10a, 4x, p7 added to Smoke Screen
FA: Jeff Altenburg, Bob Pinkney
46. Free Wheelin' 5.10c, 3x, small wires, 1" cam, joins Smoke Screen
47. Bad News 5.11a, 1x, 165+', best belay at tree
FA: Jay Smith, Randy Grandstaff, 1980
48. Good News 5.10 ?
49. Too Bad 5.11a, __x
FA: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, 1982
50. Red Eye Express 5.10a
FA: Jay Smith, Gary Anderson, 1980
51. Wings and Stings 5.7 *, 3-5p
52. "death route" 5.10c R
53. Razor Face 5.10b, 3p, p1: 4 #4 Friends, p2: 5.10b, 3x, wires
54. Tom Slick 5.10a, 2p, 2x
55. Psycho Killer 5.11a, 3p, p1: Sea of Holes, p2: 5.10d thin, p3: 5.11a, 3x
56. Sea of Holes 5.10a *, 4p, new 5.10c? crux at 2nd bolt of p2 (broken flake)
FA: Jay Smith, Jeff Altenburg, 1978
57. new route(s?) 5.10 ?
Quarry
58. Quarry thin crack 5.11c/d tr, 2 ropes, middle of central buttress
FA(tr): Chris Bellizzi, Karl McConachie
Calaveras Dome
59. King of Fools 5.8 A4, ~10p, steep nailing for the first few
pitches. The traverse through the big arch is spectacular - probably a lot
like the KB traverse on Iron Hawk before it got beat out from lots of
ascents. There is some free climbing and walking up ramps higher on the
wall, with aid in between. There is a sort of heads-up pitch midway on the
wall, with some hard aid above one of the ramps. Shares the last pitch
and a half with Banzai.
FA: Kevin Andrews, Eric George, ~1998
60. Fine Line 5.11, vertical dike, protrudes 4-5", bolted
61. Totally Buzzed 5.9, LFC
62. Banzai V 5.10 A3, 10p
63. arch 5.11a?
64. War Lord p1 5.10b, 1x, face past bolt to left-facing corner
65. War Lord (full) 5.10b A4, 9p
66. Rainbow center 5.10c, left facing flake
67. Rainbow's End p1 5.10d, thin
68. Rainbow's End p1-3 5.11a *, 3p
p1: 5.10d thin
p2: 5.10d nice left leaning arch, squeeze at end
p3: 5.11a severely left leaning arch, squeeze at start, to thin undercling
FA: Jay Smith
69. Rainbow's End (full) 5.11+? *, 5p, progressively harder pitches
70. Trick of the Tail
71. Carville's Carnage pr., overhanging gold wall above arch
72. rivets
73. knobs 5.10?, __x
74. Hyenas p1 5.10b
75. Laughing Hyenas 5.11c, 2p?
76. Rastaman Vibrations 5.12b A1 *, 14p, some are 5.11
FA: Jay Smith
77. Block Head 5.9 *
78. Silk Road p1 5.10c
FA: Will Cottrell
79. Silk Road start 5.11, 2p
FA: Will Cottrell
80. face R of Silk Road p1 5.10?, __x
81. Hightimes 5.10d *, 14p, starts with p1 of Sands of Time,
then up a series of left facing corners. At the top of p8
in the topo, Hightimes goes to the right, and the Silk Road p9-11
variation goes up the thin left facing corner.
FA: 80s
82. Silk Road p9-11 var. 5.10d, var. to Hightimes
FA: Will Cottrell
83. Silk Road p12 var. 5.10+, 2x
FA: Will Cottrell
84. Silk Road p13 var. 5.12, thin crack/groove
FA: Will Cottrell
85. Karakoram Highway 5.11, 4p, left finish to Hightimes,
joins last 3p of Rastaman Vibrations
86. Sands of Time 5.10a *, 12p
87. right wall crack 5.10?, crack on right wall of Sands of Time corner
88. Time Traveler 5.10b, 3p var. start to Sands of Time
89. Calaveras Dreamin' (aka Green Sponge) 5.11b *, 12p
FA: Craig McKibben, Greg Donaldson, May 1973
FFA: Ron Felton, Jon Fox, 6/28/97
90. Tsunami 5.11c *, 6p
FA: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, 1983
91. Tits on a Ritz 5.10c, 8x
92. Shakin' All Over 5.12a *, 12p
FA: Jay Smith
93. Mad World, starts off upper ramp, L of Vaya Con Pollos
94. Wall of the Worlds (aka War of the Walls) 5.10c *, 11p
FA: Jay Smith, Jeff Altenburg, 1978
95. WotW p1 var. 5.11, thin
96. Vaya Con Pollos 5.11 *, branches left from p4 of Wall of the Worlds,
steep dike with knobs
97. Lowe/Jones Variation 5.8 ?, leaves WotW in middle of p8, goes right
98. Fist Fight 5.10b, 4p, crux fist in RFC
99. Medicine Man 5.12d or 5.11 A0 *, 2+p, bolted face right of WotW
100. Fist Fight p1-p2 5.7, straight-in crack
101. Fist Fight var. start 5.7, RFC
102. Voton's Staircase 5.10c, 2p, p2: arch with gear to 2"
103. Beacons from Mars 5.10d *, 9p
FA: Jay Smith, Jeff Altenburg, Brock Wagstaff, 1979
104. Beacons from Mars p1 5.10c
105. Sole Sacrifice 5.11a, 3p
FA: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, 1980
106. Sole Sacrifice p1 5.10b
107. After the Gold Rush 5.10c, 3p, goes L, crossing Sole Sac. and Beacons
108. After the Gold Rush p1 5.10a
109. Thunderbolt 5.10b *, 3p, dike on R margin of slab, 10x replaced
FA: Jay Smith, Jeff Altenburg, 1979
110. Old Smokey 5.9 *, 9p, gear to 2.5", first 2 belays replaced
FA: Jeff Altenburg, Bob Pinkney, et al, 1977
111. Agent Orange 5.10d, traverses R to 1x, then up and L; joins Old Smokey p1
Hidden Wall (5400', closed for bird nesting January 1 - June 30)
112. Haunt of the Grizzly 5.12a, bolted crack past roof
FFA: Troy Corliss
113. Loaded for Bear 5.13a, 3p
p1: 5.11d, thin corner crack to roof, mixed bolts and gear.
p2: 5.13a, overhanging, left-leaning corner. Technical liebacking until
the crack pinches down, then a sequential arete.
p3: 5.12a, consistently thin corner, mixed bolts and gear.
p1 was originally climbed free as "Out of Sight", 5.10.
Perhaps it ended below the roof at that time, or it may have gone up
a different corner nearby.
FA(p1): 80s
FFA(full): John Scott, 1997
114. Quiet Mind 5.12c
FFA: Troy Corliss
115. Treasure Chest gully 5.4?, approach gully with fixed ropes
Start the following routes by scrambling up from the Quiet Mind tree and
traversing right, or traverse left from the approach gully with fixed ropes:
116. pr., probably 5.13b
117. Gold Finger 5.12d, same start, right finish over a roof - awesome
FFA: John Scott, 2001
118. Treasure Chest 5.12b, one move wonder - hand jam out a roof to
same anchors as Gold Finger
FFA: John Scott, 2001
119. Golden Medallion 5.12a, good warmup, gear required in the middle
FA("Watcher in the Skies"): 80s
FFA: Troy Corliss
120. Hidden Treasure 5.12c *, 3p
p1: 5.12c, bolted corner through broken features, into a shallow
flaring groove. Stemming and chimneying to roof with 2-finger
slot for clip. Reach into pumpy layback corner, protected by gear.
p2: 5.12a, open book, bolt protected. Climbs more like a slappy
steep arete than a stemming corner.
p3: 5.12a, thin crack and flake system.
FFA: Mark Leffler, Troy Corliss, 1997
121. Treasure Chest right side 5.8?, mossy crack/corner?
122. Mephistopheles Throne 5.12d, 2p
p1: 5.12a
p2: 5.12d, layback flake up overhanging headwall, 8+x
FFA(p1): John Scott
FFA(p2): Troy Corliss
123. Millenium Falcon 5.13b, 3p
p1: 5.13b, knobby face
p2: 5.13a, 65m rope to lower and a trail line to get back in. Be careful!
p3: pr., 5.12
FFA(p1-2): John Scott
124. Ginsu start to Millenium anchors pr.
125. Ginsu 5.12b A0 *, 19x, thin flake to knobs, cover photo of Climbing #194
FFA: John Scott
126. Falcon Gods 5.12c, 3p
p1: 5.11a, thin crack/corner on arete R of knobby slab, to ledge and corner
p2: 5.12c, corner, two cruxes, can stop after the 1st crux at Pipeline
belay, or lower back down to it from the p2 anchor.
p3: 5.10d, LF corner right of Pipeline
p1-2 were first climbed with some aid as "The Great Gig in the Sky"
FA(p1-2): James McConachie, _____ McConachie, _____ McConachie, mid 80s
FFA: Troy Corliss
127. Pipeline 5.12b, 100' 1"-2", left leaning corner, alt. to p3 of Falcon Gods
FFA: Troy Corliss
128. The Great Gig in the Sky p4? A2?, left-leaning arch A2, left of Pipeline
(or this route might possibly have finished by aiding Pipeline; a recon
will clear this up)
This arch has been aided by Roxanne and Graham from Tahoe
129. mossy lower face 5.9?, 1x belay at lip
130. offwidth to flare 5.10a?, corner with mossy bulge directly below Falcon God
131. knobby slab 5.10a X, climb near the fixed line from the bolt belay
at the base of Falcon Gods to bolt anchor at the small corner below Ginsu.
132. tube corner 5.10b?, overhanging left-leaning LFC on R side of knobby slab
133. overhanging corner 5.10c?, overhanging mossy hand crack
134. another corner 5.10c?, just right of p1 of Falcon Gods, joins it
135. chimney switch 5.8, 2p
p1: 5.8, up easy chimney below ow, up wide crack or 5.9 lieback on right
wall to belay at oak tree
p2: 5.8, traverse R to R chimney system, up outside face, then
dirty chimney to belay ledge. Move belay up and over left (3rd class)
to bolt belay at start of Falcon Gods. (or could continue upwards)
Hidden Wall - West Buttress ("Rattlesnake Buttress")
136. Finders Keepers 5.11, steep chimney system on L side of West Buttress.
One pitch of face to a pyramid type block that sits at the bottom of a
nice hand crack to ow. Belay under a giant roof that actually turns to
left and forms a ow undercling. The lower section is probably 5.9.
The undercling is in the 5.11 range.
FA: Ron Felton, 96/97
FFA: unknown
137. Thin Lizzy 5.10+, in center of NE face of West Buttress. One pitch.
Traverse in to start. Has some thin sections, but also dikes to rest on.
FA: Karl McConachie?
138. more Rattlesnake routes 5.9?, more possibilities further right?
route names to match up
Below are some route names, mostly from the safeclimbing.org web page.
They are listed as rebolted routes, and the names may match some
of the routes above whose names I don't know. Bolt counts
are given to help in the process.... Probably a lot of them
are on Silver Streak Slab.
139. Original Sin 5.12, Calaveras Dome, gear, photo p.101 of Climbing #194
140. Over the Edge, 6x
141. Solar Panel, 5x, 2p
142. Walking on the Moon, 5x
143. West of Venus, 21x
144. Whyamea, 4x